Tuesday, December 25, 2007

How They Wear it: Mouna Ayoub Part II

Clockwise top left: Mouna Ayoub, in Dior couture with Loulou de la Falaise at her birthday party in Paris; In a Gaultier Paris gown from Spring 2005; At the Cannes film festival in Atelier Versace, Spring 2003; During Couture week in January 2002, the House of Dior threw a costume ball, taking over the main floor of the Ritz hotel, shrouding its chandeliers in black tulle and pumping out disco tunes and dry ice in equal measure till dawn. Ayoub appeared at the party dressed as Cruella de Ville accompanied by two Afghan hounds that stood in for the Dalmatians; Mouna Ayoub photographed in her famous jewels.

Mouna Ayoub’s passion for haute couture has endeared her to many of the designers, not because of the amount she spends, but for her knowledge and appreciation of the craft. So much so that Gaultier even broke with the protocol concerning his clients, and spoke of her during an interview with Suzy Menkes. “It’s marvelous to find someone who loves fashion so much,” said Gaultier of Ayoub at the time. “And she is generous and adorable with the people who work on her dresses.”

This was no more apparent than in 1999, when the Musee de la Mode in Marseille mounted an exhibit of some of her haute couture pieces, entitled “Mouna Ayoub, Parcours d’une Collectionneuse” (A Voyage Around a Collector). It was a rare instance when a living couture customer opened up her personal wardrobe to the general public. For the exhibit’s inaugural reception Ayoub not only included the designers on her guest list, but the heads of the couture workrooms, the embroiderer Francois Lesage, as well as the feather supplier Andre Lemarie. “I know the designers, I love the premières (atelier heads)” explained Ayoub. “That’s why, although I’m a collector, I’m not interested in old pieces, there has to be a human contact.”

Ayoub has often said that “Couture is also a form of art,” as a rebuttal to those who may see the craft and its clients as frivolous. By doing so Ayoub points to the fact that the media seldom bats an eye when wealthy individuals invest large sums in a piece of modern art or champion the work of a contemporary artist. Art in many cases is seen as a legitimate form of investment, where as couture, which straddles that fine line between creation and commerce is often perceived by the general public as simply high priced clothing destined for a few individuals.

But the last few decades has witnessed a boom in the study, conservation, and collecting of costumes, and more significantly haute couture, by major museums and cultural institutions around the world. Not only is haute couture widely regarded as a form of social history, but savvy curators have also realized that costume exhibits have the power to attract a large number of visitor’s through a museum’s doors.

Despite this curatorial interest in haute couture, only one tenth of Mouna Ayoub's personal wardrobe has ever gone on public display. But if Ayoub has her way, the general public may soon have the opportunity to indulge in the voyeuristic pleasures of delving into a couture customer’s extensive wardrobe. She recently purchased a grand Château outside of Paris which she is currently renovating into a museum to house her extensive collection of priceless frocks so that future generations can admire the work of the couturiers and their ateliers.
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How They Wear it: Sheikha Mozah bint Nasser Al-Missned, Part I

In a rare TV interview in 2003 on CBS News's 60 Minutes, Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa al-Thani the Emir of Qatar discussed the reforms he was implementing in his country. To Qataris and other Gulf Arabs watching TV at home, that 60 Minutes interview was a complete shock, and not because of the emir's ruminations on freedom and democracy. Qataris, rather, were focused on the woman sitting beside him. It was the first time the vast majority of them had seen any of their first ladies.

The second of Sheikh Hamad’ three wives, (He married a cousin, which cemented a problematic political alliance. He married Sheikha Mozah, because she caught his fancy. And he married yet again, solidifying another alliance with another cousin), Sheikha Mozah is the first and only Qatari ruling spouse to show herself in public. A rarity in a region where most wives, consorts, and queens remain firmly under wraps. But that is just the start of it.

With a BA in sociology and holding several posts in Qatar and internationally, that include Vice-President of the Supreme Education Council and UNESCO’s Special Envoy for Basic and Higher Education, this mother of seven finds herself in a constant state of travel and conferences. Whether meeting with the President of France or speaking at the United Nations General Assembly, she is always impeccably turned out in custom couture outfits by Dior, Gaultier, and Chanel to name a few.

Clockwise: In Gaultier Paris, Fall 2005; In Christian Dior couture, Fall 2005; In Gaultier Paris, Spring 2005; In Dior couture, Spring 2005; In Chanel couture, Spring 2005.

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How They Wear it: Sheikha Mozah bint Nasser Al-Missned, Part II

Although it has been known for years that clients from the Gulf constitute a large portion of couture’s customer base, Sheikha Mozah’s public life has meant that for the first time we are able to see what a couture customer from the Gulf is buying. She is a perfect example of how Couture allows clients from the Gulf to adapt garments to their specific lifestyles, often lengthening skirt or covering arms to adhere to Islamic customs of modesty while still maintaining a sense of style.

Clockwise: Gaultier Paris, Fall 2005; Jean-Louis Scherrer, Fall 2004; Gaultier Paris Spring 2006; In Jean-Louis Scherrer, Spring 2005; Wearing Gaultier Paris, Fall 2005.

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How They Wear It: Princess Firyal of Jordan

Princess Firyal of Jordan is originally Palestinian. Her title comes from her marriage to the brother of the late King Hussein of Jordan. Over the years she has gained a reputation as one of the most glamorous and best-dressed couture customers on the international social scene. Long known as a hostess in London and Paris (where she maintains homes) she currently lives in New York. An ardent fundraiser who has assisted in a wide variety of Educational and Cultural programs in Jordan and abroad, the Princess is also a UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador. In October 1999, she became a member of the International Committee of the "Musses des Arts Decoratifs" in Paris, as well as a seat on the Chairman's Council of the Museum of Modern Art in New York.

She was a loyal customer at Balmain during Oscar de la Renta’s tenure at the House. Today she is a client at Chanel, Gaultier Paris, and Valentino.

Clockwise: In Yves Saint Laurent haute couture, Spring 1986; In Chanel couture, Spring 2004; In Gaultier Paris, Fall 2005; In Balmain couture, Fall 2001; Wearing Gaultier Paris, Fall 2005.

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How They Wear it: Queen Rania of Jordan

Jordan's Queen Rania is one of the Middle East's more intriguing public figures, and has been called the new face of Islamic feminism in the 21 century. Married to King Abdullah II, this college educated former banker and mother of three works to improve conditions for her country's disadvantaged and regularly steps onto the world stage to promote and enhance Jordan's image abroad. With her excellent command of the English language, Rania is comfortable speaking with foreign dignitaries and Western journalists alike. Even on matters that require the utmost diplomatic skill, she seems at ease. "People in the West view Arab women as being very conservative not necessarily educated," she commented. "And the truth of the matter is that we have many brilliant women who are very forward-looking."

Although she frequently appears on the International Best Dressed list, Rania is not a conspicuous couture consumer when compared to other clients from the Middle East, but tends to be pragmatic in her purchases. At her husband’s coronation, she chose to borrow a tiara rather than buy a new one that would have been worn infrequently. From the European designers she tends to favor Dominique Sirop, Givenchy and Jean Paul Gaultier. But her favorite is the Lebanese Couturier Elie Saab, not only because he designed her coronation gown, but also because it gives her the opportunity to promote the work of a Middle Eastern designer on an International stage.

Clockwise: In Gaultier Paris, Fall 2002; In Elie Saab Fall 2003; In Givenchy couture, Spring 2004; Wearing Elie Saab Fall 2004.

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How They Wear it: Queen Lalla Salma of Morocco

The flame-haired Princess Lalla Salma of Morocco is not only one of the Middle East’s most glamorous humanitarian campaigners, but at 29, also one of its youngest royal consorts. After graduating with a degree in computer science she wed King Mohammed VI in 2002. In February of this year she gave birth to her second child, Princess Lalla Khadija. Like Queen Rania of Jordan, who has long been a figure-head for women's rights in the Arab world, Lalla Salma is paving the way for women's advancement herself, by being the first female member of the Moroccan royal family to have been publicly acknowledged and given a royal title. Today she uses her enhanced profile to support charities such as one for cancer research, as well as promote Moroccan interests abroad.

She is frequently seen at state functions and royal banquets in sumptuously embroidered caftans. On other official occasions she dons beautifully constructed Chanel and Valentino suits. She tends to go for more classic pieces that are altered slightly (the lengthening of a skirt hem, or covering of the shoulders) to adhere to Islamic customs modesty.

Clockwise: With her sister in law Princess Lalla Meryem wearing richly embroidered caftans; In Valentino couture Fall 2004; Often eclipsing the women in western dress, she attended a dinner at Versailles in an embroidered silk and chiffon caftan; in a Valentino couture coat, Fall 2004.

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How They Wear it: Princess Lalla Meryem

King Mohammed VI of Morocco’s equally glamorous sisters, Princesses Lalla Meryem above and Lalla Hasna below, have also been attracting attention over the years for their humanitarian work and sense of style. Whether appearing at public functions or private parties in billowing silk caftans, or sleek Chanel suits, they exude sophistication and elegance.

Princess Lalla Meryem was born in Rome and is the first daughter of the late King Hassan II. In addition to being a UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador, the mother of two focuses on projects that enhance the rights of women and children.

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